Chef Dan Kluger has a thing for vegetables, and it seems vegetables may have a thing for him because they do wonderful things in his hands.
Dan Kluger has a thing for vegetables, and it seems vegetables may have a thing for him because they do wonderful things in his hands. You’ll understand what I’m saying after one visit to his big, beautiful and seriously bustling Village restaurant, Loring Place.
Summer beans, for instance, get in bed with peaches, herbs and goat cheese. Heirloom tomatoes, sweet and juicy, are dressed with lemon and herbs and romp around with parmesan croutons. Roasted corn meets shishito peppers, grilled onions and basil, while whole wheat pizzas host squash blossoms, ricotta, mozzarella, honey and chilies. There is meat to be had, sure—a wood-oven roasted short rib with horseradish gremolata and potato purée, a Peking duck, with turnips, cherries and pistachio—but it’s not at all necessary. Kluger, who trained under Jean Georges and opened ABC Kitchen to rave reviews, has developed a kind of algorithm for vegetable cookery that makes eating them a deliriously thrilling experience.
Any and All Vegetable Options
- Subway: A, C, E, B, D, F, M to West 4th
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