City Guide: Rome
L’Arcangelo
Thursdays are traditionally when gnocchi is served in Rome, and this is the place to hit up.
Across the Tiber river lies L’Arcangelo—an inviting restaurant named for its chef, Arcangelo Dandini, with a loyal neighborhood following and an affinity for toy trinkets which are displayed at random on the marble-topped tables. (If you’re lucky you’ll have a Matchbox fire truck at your place setting). Order the suppli, traditional Roman street food, as your antipasti and you’ll receive a trio of breaded, fried snacks with a variety of fillings (wish we had one more bite left of the sausage and pecorino). Here they are presented in individual glass bowls, a little more refined than at Arcangelo’s suppli spinoff, Supplizio, which stuffs theirs with the likes of Roman Pecorino cheese, mozzarella cheese, and black pepper—a nod to Cacio e Pepe. If it’s Thursday, gnocchi day, there is no question of what to order next: gnocchi alla ‘matriciana. The rest of the menu sings, so let your stomach guide you to figure out the rest.
Supplì and Gnocchi
Ideal for:
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