City Guide: New York
Cosme
Cosme chef Enrique Olvera brings his modern Mexican cuisine to the Flatiron with addictive dishes like the husk meringue with corn mousse.
You might say world-renowned Chef Enrique Olvera cooks Mexican food. You might also say that Alice Waters cooks American food. But you’d be understating things significantly. Like Waters, Olvera is a pioneer. In his case, of the new Mexican gastronomy movement at his restaurant Pujol in Mexico City, influencing a generation of young chefs in the process. At Cosme, a stunning restaurant that feels like the dining room of a mid-century modern furniture designer, there are tostadas (avocado, bone marrow salsa, cucumber), tamals (broccoli, goat ricotta, arugula, wasabi), and mole (chicken thigh, in white mole). You are advised not to miss the duck carnitas, braised in their own fat and served with onions and cilantro and a stack of fresh tortillas, tucked into a napkin like a child into its bed, warm and cozy. Pull one from its nest, inhale and try not to eat unadorned, one after another. Actually, don’t bother; just enjoy them. They will be refilled. Also, for dessert, you need the husk meringue filled corn mousse more than you know.
Husk Meringue with Corn Mousse
- Subway: N, R to 23rd; 6 to 23rd
Ideal for:
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